SELECTED FEATURE STORIES & ESSAYS

  • Ruben Ochoa Puts Hidden Labour Under The Spotlight

    (Frieze, Spring 2023)

    For his Frieze Projects installation, the artist gives Los Angeles’ historically undervalued street vendors the focus they deserve.

    Ruben Ochoa, CLASS: C mobile gallery, 2001–5, 1985 family's tortilla delivery Chevy Van. Courtesy: the artist
  • ‘The Cheech,’ a Game Changer for Chicano Art, Opens in Riverside

    (The New York Times, June 16, 2022)

    As the Cheech Marin Center for Chicano Art and Culture debuts, its founder hopes to inspire a renaissance in a region of California lacking public arts funding.

    portrait of Cheech Marin in front of the former Riverside Public Library
  • After Breakup of Avenue 26 Night Market, Vendors Rebuild Around the City

    (KCET, January 2022)

    “In the spring and summer of 2021, the hardest place to find public parking in Los Angeles wasn't The Grove, Venice Beach or even Dodger Stadium. It was the Avenue 26 Night Market in Lincoln Heights, which before its abrupt shut down last summer, transformed an industrial warren of warehouses, steel gates and concrete walls into the largest and most dynamic open-air street market in California.”

  • 'Wine Was a Tool of Conquest': California's Hidden Multiethnic History of Winemaking

    (Feature, KCET.org, March 2022)

    “Looking back to the early days of the California wine industry shows us that winemaking has not always been the province of historically elite groups, but that it belongs, in some way, to all Californians . . . “

    Historic black-and-white image of El Aliso
  • Exploring Hermosillo, Sonora: Northern Mexico's Great Unsung Food City

    (Los Angeles Times, 2019)

    “Made from just wheat flour, salt, water and lard, and stretched to what seems an unreasonably thin consistency, a proper Sonoran tortilla sparks a sort of ephemeral pleasure spiral: You are consumed with the sense of eating something unequivocally buttery, light and tender; something so rich and finely honed you can almost feel your neurons inflate with pleasure.”

  • The Playboy Symposium: The Not-So-Subtle Racism Of American Food Culture

    (Playboy, February 2021)

    “We are good at using food as a lens when we like what we’re going to see. It is hard and uncomfortable but absolutely necessary to talk about the junctures where food and race in America intersect in dehumanizing and violent ways.

  • Mexican Sushi Is On a Roll

    (The Phoenix New Times, 2016)

    “The rolls often bear multisyllabic names like El Guamuchilito and El Culichi — shout-outs to beloved hometowns back in Sinaloa . . . “

  • Las Taqueras: 3 Women in the Male-Dominated World of Tacos

    (Los Angeles Times, 2019)

    “In the high desert city of Hesperia, 80 miles northeast of Los Angeles, it was so cold on a recent night that the salsas outside the Tacos La Madrina food truck stiffened with frost.”

  • The undocumented restaurant workers who fed us are being forgotten. This is their struggle

    (Los Angeles Times, 2020)

    “Tony Ruiz doesn’t know where he’s going to sleep tonight.”

    Photo of Tony Ruiz
  • The pandemic-era restaurant menu: How Covid-19 is reshaping the way we eat

    (The Counter, 2021)

    “Perhaps not since the first wave of drive-thru restaurants have we experienced such large-scale depersonalization of ordering and eating restaurant food.”

  • It’s Time We Give the Mexican Combo Platter the Credit It Deserves

    (Bon Appetit, February 2020)

    “The Number 11 was hearty and flagrantly rich, a spectacle of fleshy, smoky chile and molten white cheese. The rice and beans were crucial to the experience, offering succor from the chile’s needling spice, but also fortifying and delicious on their own. Eating it filled me with a warm buzzy pleasure.”

  • Maryvale 'Serial Shooter' Murders Have Residents on Edge — And Feeling Abandoned

    (The Phoenix New Times, 2016)

    “Over the years, the community of Maryvale has faced almost every imaginable challenge, from shifting demographics to the panic of being branded a cancer cluster, plus all the attendant problems of an aging “inner-ring” suburb.

    Now, the question is whether the sprawling village in west Phoenix can survive yet one more trauma: the first serial killer in metro Phoenix in more than a decade, a serial shooter that some residents believe struck again just a few weeks ago in their community.”

  • "Mother's Milk" (Personal Essay)

    (The Phoenix New Times, September 2017)

    “Pajarete, in a larger context, is part of that glorious pantheon of drinks invented to make freezing winter mornings slightly more bearable. It’s a body-warming drink, one that wipes the fog out of your eyes and eases you into the day with grace. It’s a farmhand communion, an easygoing ritual among neighbors and workers. Pajarete, in other words, is not something you drink alone.”

  • In Praise of South Tucson's All-You-Can-Eat Breakfast Buffets

    (Roads & Kingdom, August 2018)

    “I was a broke college student living in a 250-square-foot studio apartment in Tucson. I slept on a lumpy futon with my head five feet away from the toilet. My sleep was regularly interrupted by the sounds of my neighbors’ headboard knocking against the wall.”

  • 'Sex Mex' Is Trendy, but Using Sex to Sell Tacos Is Hardly New

    (The Phoenix New Times, February 2018)

    “On this night, the Beergaritas were flowing, the wordless thump of EDM vibrated in the air, and as promised, a couple of Hefe Girls danced on the bar. One of the women, gyrating in hot pants and a low-cut tank top, poured a waterfall of tequila, straight from the bottle, into the gaping mouth of a young bearded dude. His friends slapped him on the back in approval, and his face took on the glow of someone who had just taken communion.”

  • She’s trying to fill the void in Salvadoran cookbooks. Will book publishers listen?

    (Profile of Karla Vasquez, 2020, Los Angeles Times)

    “Six years ago Karla Vasquez was a budding home cook learning to make one of her favorite Salvadoran dishes — the minced beef dish called salpicón salvadoreño — when she made a sobering discovery: There are almost no Salvadoran cookbooks currently in print in the U.S.”

  • The story behind those colorful shag-rug cakes all over Instagram

    (Profile of Alana Jones-Mann, 2019, Los Angeles Times)

    “On a recent Friday afternoon, Alana Jones-Mann sat in her light-filled dining room overlooking the leafy hilltops of central Los Angeles. She was seated at the long, white kitchen table that doubles as her work space, with about a dozen pastry piping bags spread around her. The sound of classical music drifted in from another room. She took a deep breath.”

  • How Mexican restaurants in Los Angeles became a haven for mole lovers

    (Los Angeles Times, 2020)

    “To think of mole as a sauce fails to capture its spirit and range. Mole is about the detailed layering of flavors; each ingredient is usually prepared or cooked separately, and then blended into a thick, complex substance that is simmered into harmony. Although it is often paired with meats and rice, mole is never the side dish: It is the centerpiece of the table.”

  • L.A. street vendors fought 10 years for the right to sell. Then COVID-19 came along

    (Los Angeles Times, 2020)

    “If you live near Broadway and Vernon Avenue in South L.A., you’ve probably heard the familiar cry of Don Faustino Martinez.”

  • The Tamale Store: Immigrant turns Phoenix into a tamale town

    (The Arizona Republic, feature story, 2018; Please note: I don’t like the headline my editor put on this story. But I love The Tamale Store. Highly recommended if you are in Phoenix).

    “During the holidays — the high season for professional tamale makers across Mexico and the American Southwest — Castillo estimates she and her team of about 20 employees produce around 12,000 tamales a week.”

  • Frankie Muniz trades acting for olive oil, Hollywood for Scottsdale

    (The Arizona Republic, feature, 2019)

    A few years ago, I walked into a Scottsdale tourist shop and found actor Frankie Muniz standing behind a cash register, selling olive oil.

Restaurant criticism, selected pieces

 

CAFE AGIT, Mesa, Arizona (2016, The Phoenix New Times)

 

TRATTO, Phoenix, Arizona (2016, The Phoenix New Times)

ROLAND’S CAFE MARKET BAR, Phoenix, Arizona (2018, The Phoenix New Times)

 

TA’CARBON, Phoenix, Arizona (2018, The Phoenix New Times)

 

DINER 50, Phoenix, Arizona (2016, The Phoenix New Times)

TAQUERIA EL CHINO, Phoenix, Arizona (2015, The Phoenix New Times)

 

HOLA CABRITO / KISS POLLOS ESTILO SINALOA: Goat and Chicken Specialties Draw Diners to Phoenix's Hola Cabrito and Kiss Pollos Estilo Sinaloa (2016, The Phoenix New Times)

Gas Station Burrito: A Love Story (2018, The Phoenix New Times)

SINGING PANDAS, Chandler, Arizona (2018, The Phoenix New Times)

Drunk With History: Celebrating Cinco de Mayo in America (Commentary, 2018, The Phoenix New Times)

EL PALACIO, Chandler, Arizona (2016, The Phoenix New Times)

 

THE DRESSING ROOM, Phoenix, Arizona (2017, The Phoenix New Times)

DURANT’S, Phoenix, Arizona (2017, The Phoenix New Times)

 

THE GRAND, Phoenix, Arizona (2017, The Phoenix New Times)

EL BURRITO GRANDE, Phoenix, Arizona (2017, The Phoenix New Times)

 

Regional Chinese Cooking On the Rise in Phoenix (Feature Cover Story, 2018, The Phoenix New Times)

Should White People Cook Mexican Food? Thoughts on the Kooks Burritos Saga (Essay/Op-ed, 2017, The Phoenix New Times)

PA’LA, Phoenix, Arizona (2018, The Phoenix New Times)

Los Angeles Times, selected restaurant criticism & feature stories (2019-2020)

 

X’TIOSU KITCHEN, Los Angeles (2019)

NoMad, Los Angeles (2019)

KONBI, Los Angeles (2019)

KRA Z KAI’S, Corona, California (2019)

CHAAK KITCHEN, Tustin, California (2019)

KASIH, Los Angeles (2019)

FONDA MIXOAC, Anaheim, California (2019)

MUTIARA, Inglewood, California (2019)

NIGHTSHADE, Los Angeles (2019)

SONORATOWN, Los Angeles (2019)

OTOÑO, Los Angeles (2019)

INTERVIEW, LISA HANAGAN, TUCA & BERTIE (2019)

 

SUSHI BAR, Encino, California (2019)

YOURS TRULY, Venice, California (2019)

AMORCITO, Long Beach, California (2019)

TARTINE BIANCO, Los Angeles (2019)

FORN AL HARA, Anaheim, California (2019)

BULGARINI GELATO ARTIGIANALE, Altadena, California (2019)

THE FARMHOUSE AT ROGER’S GARDENS, Corona del Mar, California (2019)

SPAGO, Beverly Hills, California (2019)

CHINITOS TACOS, Lakewood, California (2019)

COLAPASTA, Santa Monica, California (2019)

BRODARD, Fountain Valley, California (2019)

LA DIOSA DE LOS MOLES, Paramount, California (2019)

OPENAIRE AT THE LINE HOTEL, Koreatown (2019)

SPOON & PORK, Los Angeles, California (2019)

MILPA GRILLE, Boyle Heights (2019)

MOGU MOGU, Sawtelle (2019)

MÁQUINA TACO, Pasadena, California (2019)

KNIFE PLEAT, Costa Mesa (2019)

ARTESANO TAMALERIA, Los Angeles (2019)

BEBOT FILIPINO SOUL FOOD, Long Beach (2020)

BEBOT FILIPINO SOUL FOOD (en español), Long Beach (2020)

TIRSA’S MEXICAN CAFE, Los Angeles (2020)

YAPA, Los Angeles (2020)

BIANCA BAKERY, Culver City, California (2020)

 

Selected book reviews,

2009-2011

Review: Donald Sturrock’s Storyteller: The Authorized Biography of Roald Dahl

“Peeling back Dahl’s lifelong attraction to glamour and wealth, Sturrock uncovers an even greater fondness for English rural life, where he raises orchids and children, and thrives artistically under the general quotidian ease of life at the family’s country home, Gipsy House.”

Review: Fools for Beauty: Michael Cunningham’s By Nightfall

“Imagine now that passionate strain of teenage melancholia conflated with and compounded by the familiar cruelties of middle age.”

Review: Devastating and Ordinary: Danielle Evans’s Before You Suffocate Your Own Fool Self

“There’s an inherent loneliness to these characters that’s perhaps best summarized by Georgie from Someone Ought to Tell Here There’s Nowhere to Go.”

On the Strangeness of Being Alive: Paul Auster’s Sunset Park

“Bing and his small army of Sunset Park squatters are part of a generation of unsettled, college-educated twenty- and thirtysomethings, bright, artistically-inclined men and women, perpetually short on cash, cobbling together a living with part-time jobs to make time for personal pursuits.”

Review: Strange, Complicated Lives: Ann Beattie’s The New Yorker Stories

“If Beattie uses subtle humor to reveal her characters chronic indecision and self-absorption, her later works use humor to capture the grim reality of aging boomers.”